lehmann



(No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 1.

R. LEHMANN.

METHOD 0F ORNAMENTING NAP 0R PILE FABRICS No. 462,979. Patented Nov. 10, v1891.

2 Sheets-Sheet 2.

R. LEHMANN. METHOD 0F ORNAMBNTING NAP 0R PILE FABRICS. No. 462,979

(N o Model.)

. Patented Nov. .1.0, 1891.

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UNITED' STATES PATENT OFFICE.

.RICHARD LEHMANN, OF BERLIN, GERMANY.

METHOD OF ORNAMENTING NAP OR PILE FABRICS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 462,979, dated November 10, 1891.

Application filed August l0, 1891. Serial No. 402,277., (No model.) Patented in England May 8, 1891, No. 7,944, and in France May 8,1891, No. 213,320.

.To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, RICHARD LEHMANN, a subject of theKin g of Prussia, residing at Berlin, Prussia, Germany, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in the Manufacture of Figured Fabrics Having a Long Nap or Pileas, for instance, plush fabrics- (for which a patent has been granted in Great Britain May 8, 1891, No. 7,944, and in France May 8, 1891, No. 213,3205) and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and eX- act description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same, reference being had to the accompanyingV drawings, and to letters of reference marked thereon which form a part of this specification.

The invention relates to the manufacture of figured fabrics having a long nap or pile, as, for instance, plush fabrics.

In the manufactureof figured fabrics of the class referred to the design has heretofore been produced by pressure and beate-that is to say, these fabrics have heretofore been laid nap down on a pattern-plate or die which has the design engraved therein, and to which heat and pressure is then applied. Another mode of producing these figured fabrics is to pass the same between the pattern-cylinder having the design engraved in its periphery and between a pressure-cylinder, one or both cylinders being heated, these operations being performed in a manner similar to the ordinary mode of printing, except that a greater pressure is employed and considerable heat applied. Those fibers subjected to the pressure by the portions in relief on the design are in these operations firmly pressed to the groundwork of the fabric, in fact, so firmly as to cause. adhesion, producing.;` substantially abrupt ridges, it being impossible by these methods to obtain a wavy or more or less curly imitation of certain pelts of animals.

The object of my invention is to provide and my said invention consists in a method of and means for obtaining a figured fabric in which the fibers of the nap or pile are more or less wavy or curly in imitation of certain pelts of animals by subjecting the fabric to the action of steam under pressure in addition to mechanical pressure in a moderate degree, as will now be fully described, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, in which- Figure 1 is a face view of'a pattern-plate o r die having the design engraved therein. Fig. 2 isa sectional view illustrating the inode of combining the fabric with the pattern-plate or die before subjecting the same to mechanical pressure and to the action of steam under pressure. Fig.3 is also aseetional view illustrating the mode of treating fabrics in the web. Fig. 4L is a face view of a portion of the fiexible Web-like pattern plate or die employed in treating fabrics in the web, and Fig. 5 is a longitudinal section thereof. Y

In producing figured fabrics according to this invention the steam is used not only to fix the bers of the nap or pile after said fibers have taken the shape of the die or pattern-plate under mechanical pressure, but also to assist said mechanical pressure in causing said'libers to take the shape of the design on the pattern-plate or die, the steam assisting in forcing the fibers into the depressions of the said pattern-plate, so thatv a comparatively slight mechanical pressure is required. It is apparent that by this method the fiber of the nap or pile of the fabric is not appressed to the groundworkof the fabric With such power or force as to cause it to adhere or stick thereto. Hence abrupt ridges are avoided and the surface of the fabric is wavy or undulating, having the more or less curly appearance of certain pelts of animals, producing very beautiful effects.

Then figured fabrics of limited dimensions are to be produced, Iem ploy a pattern-plate or die a, Figs. 1 and 2, having the design engraved therein or otherwise formed thereon, which I prefer to clothe with one or more layers of a thin or open textile fabric b. Upon this fabric b the plush c is laid, with the nap facing the said fabric, and upon the plush I lay a comparatively-thick blanket of felt d to form a cushion. first a fine wire-gauze e, and then a coarse wire fabric f, and finally a foraminous or perforated pres'sure-plate c'. Then the parts are assembled as set forth, they are clamped to- Ico On the felt blanket I place gether in any desired manner, introduced into a steam-tight chamber, to which steam under pressure is admitted for a sufficient length of time to thoroughly permeate the plush, force the fibers of the nap into the depressions, and fix or give them a permanent set.

Of course it is evident that both faces of the pattern-plate or die may be provided with a design and two pieces of plush Jtreated simultaneously.

When it is desired to treat plush in the web, the fabric and pattern-plate or die are wound together on a hollow perforated cylinder h, as shown in Fig. 3. In this case the pattern or die must be flexible, so as to adapt it to be wound on said cylinder. To this end the pattern or dieu is constructed by forming the design by means of pieces of ribbon-wire 0 or of tin inserted or laid between two or more webs of a thin or open-mesh textile fabric g, as shown in Figs. 4 and 5, the whole being subjected to pressure and to the action of steam, whereby the pieces or strips of fiat or` ribbon wire or tin o are sufficiently firmly embedded in said textile material to prevent their displacement in handling the web-like pattern or die a. As above stated, the plush c and the fiexible pattern or die a are wound together spirally upon the hollow perforated cylinder h, the only mechanical pressure applied being that resulting from the winding, and, if necessary, from an outer foraminous covering, (not shown,) and which may gener* ally be dispensed with, the ends of the plush land die being properly secured against unwinding, the blankets of textile material b, of felt d, and wire fabric e and f, referred to in respect to Fig. l, being here also dispensed with. The cylinder h, clothed as described, is introduced into a steam-tight chamber, and steam under pressure is admitted into said cylinder for the purposes above set forth.

Having thus described my invention, what l I claim as new therein, and desire to secure by Letters Patent,isf l. The method of producing figured fabrics having a long nap or pile, which consists in appressing the nap side of the fabric to a pattern or die, and fixing or setting the nap by means of heat and moisture, as set forth.

2. The method of producing figured fabrics having a long nap or pile, which consists in appressing the nap side-of the fabric to a pattern or die, and fixing or setting the nap by means of heat and moisture by forcing through the fabric steam under pressure.

3. The method of producing figured fabrics having a long nap or pile, which consists in appressing the fabric to a pattern or die and subjecting the same to the aetionof steam under pressure within a steam-tight chamber, for the purpose set forth.

Il. The method of producing figured fabrics having a long nap or pile, which consists in winding the same together with a more or less porous or foraminous pattern or die upon a hollowT perforated cylinder, inclosi ng the same in a steam-tight chamber, and introducing steam under pressure into said cylinder, for the purposes set forth.

5. In themanufacture of figured fabrics such as described, the mode of constructing the pattern or die, which consists in forming the relief portions ofthe design by means of pieces or strips of metal interposed between two or more layers of a textile fabric, for the purpose set forth.

In the manufacture of figured fabrics such asdescribed,the mode of constructingthe pattern or die, which consists in forming the relief portions of the design by means of pieces or strips of metal interposed between two or moreI layers of a textile fabric, and subjecting the same to the action of pressure and steam, for the purpose set forth.

7. A pattern or die web, for the purposes set forth, composed of pieces or strips of metal arranged to form the relief portions of the design, and two or more layers of fabricinclosing said pieces or strips of metal.

RICHARD LEHMANN.

Witnesses:

RICHARD SCHMIDT, W. HAUPT. 

